Saint-Jean-de-Luz a little paradise at the Atlantic Sea

The first time I came to this little beautiful fishing village was in 2009 when I swapped houses with another French family. We were supposed to spend an entire month here, and I was incredibly curious to discover that part of the Basque Country, the locations, the culture, and the atmosphere. 

At that time, I brought my family with small children, and we really moved in and became a part of the place. The fact that I ended up here again purely by chance 15 and 16 years later is remarkable, and now this is a place I return to again and again.

Saint-Jean de-Luz has a magical power where you immediately feel welcome, and the people embrace you with their incredibly open and friendly manner. The entire Basque culture bubbles with pride and inclusiveness, where we are all welcome to join in. 

Arriving by train early in the morning when the air is still clean and fresh. The station is only a few hundred meters from the market hall and another few hundred meters from the beach.

I love going through the local market, especially the fish and seafood section "Poissonnerie" (fish shop) where the fishmongers display the day's catch. Oysters and tuna are the focus here, and the latter is enormous in size. The fishing boats are just a few meters from the market, so this is truly catch straight from the sea without intermediaries.

The atmosphere is cheerful and loud, typically "Latino," and Basque is spoken mixed with French everywhere. Small older ladies with their baskets stand and carefully select today's meal, which they have surely done every day of their lives. Here, it is part of everyday life to go down to the market and buy fresh food that you then take home and prepare.

There is a sense of history here with the unique and authenticity at the center, just as it has been for decades. Everywhere you can see old photos, and it is striking how similar everything looks today.

The pride in Basque culture is striking here, and the attire among the locals is typically characterized by berets and red scarves. I decided that today I will have my lunch here at one of the simple outdoor cafés where a fresh menu is served directly from the counter. I am already longing for it as I continue my walk through the alleys to one of the cozy cafés for my morning coffee and fresh croissant. 

I choose a cozy French café and order my small coffee, but since the croissants are sold out, the waiter points to the bakery across the street and tells me to go there and then come back to be served my espresso. I love this attitude; if something is sold out at one place, then you can get it at another and still be served. We only serve drinks, so bring your own food, a wonderful concept.

Sitting at a French café on an early morning and watching life wake up, it is fantastic and my favorite time of the day. Everything seems to awaken to a new day with new possibilities, just like my life philosophy.

I walk slowly down to the beautiful beach and go through the small cobblestone alleys, feeling the little town waking up and preparing to welcome new visitors, customers, and friends for the day 

I chose the area at the end of the beach where it is almost completely empty and where many locals gather. I love tranquility and blending into the rhythm that the people here live by. It is truly incredible to have such a beautiful beach right in my own little town, and the water is calm here as the breakers further out slow down the waves. 

The sand is warm and completely velvety, and I enjoy my walk to the sea, which is still a bit far out due to the tide. It's a little too cold for me now in the morning, but in the afternoon, it usually gets warmer when the sun has heated up the surface more.

I lie down on my beach towel, put on my sunhat, and simply enjoy every moment. Two little girls are playing next to me, accompanied by their grandmother and grandfather, and their dialogue is my entertainment. 

People are sitting under their umbrellas, reading, strolling along the shoreline, or just lying down soaking in the sun rays that feel so nice. The best thing about going down to the beach early is that the air is still clean and clear and the temperature is pleasant and not as hot as it can be later in the day. I open my book and will stay here for a few hours before lunch at the market hall calls.

Walking up towards the square and the food market, I see how cozy lunch restaurants begin to fill up in the alleys. There are so many fantastic little cafes and restaurants here, and I would like to try them all. 

I arrive at the simple little bistro by the food market and sit down. Fresh oysters and mussels will be today's choice, along with a small carafe of a local rosé wine. The decor in the little bistro is robust and simple, but the food is amazing and completely fresh.

I love finding these simple local places to eat, and often it's the best food too, plus the prices are low. Here I am, enjoying my own company, and the oysters are the best I've had in a long time. You can tell they have been caught in salty water, and they only need a few drops of lemon on them before they are poured into my mouth.

I enjoy the place for a long time, and the people around me are replaced by new customers, but I stay put and soak in the feeling of being here, absorbing all the beauty and goodness. After lunch, I go down to the beach again, which is now starting to fill up with more people. 

After lunch, I go down to the beach again, which is now starting to fill up with more people. I finally take my first dip in the sea of the season, and the water is crystal clear and so refreshing. 

The sun is starting to warm up more now, so I put on my beach shirt to avoid burning my still a bit too pale body. Those who live here bask in the sun all the time, while I, who partially live in Sweden, have not yet laid the foundation.

The afternoon rolls on as I swim, sunbathe, read, and study beach life before it's time for me to take the train back to the Pyrenees.

At that time, I didn't know that the trains were delayed and that I wouldn't get home until many hours later due to train chaos. But that's another story and another side of this beautiful country that I might tell someday.